htpowlasers's blog
The Longer LK5 Pro is currently the Shenzhen-based manufacturer's flagship FDM 3D printer, and it's one of the fairly affordable devices that promises to offer a similar experience to pricier 3D printers. And, to my surprise, the combination of simple design and thoughtful functionality works really well for Longer. In fact, after some basic adjustments, I got some very good benchmark print results that compete with pricier printers.
You need to keep in mind, though, that while it's not very difficult to assemble, you'll need over an hour to put everything together, and it will require some fine-tuning that I'm not entirely sure will make the complete assembly be complete. Beginners are happy.
This is true for the entire 3D printing industry as it hasn't figured out a way to make things easier for new users - I know most people just want to take their printer out of the box and start printing without any adjustments.
I also know that people interested in 3D printing won't be turned off by a little tweaking, and the Longer LK5 Pro does offer the user a color touchscreen LCD that works well, along with a heated bed and a bonus feature. The glass bed, and the manufacturer also added some stabilizer bars to help reduce vibration. Furthermore, the device comes with an open-source motherboard, so it's easy to upgrade the LK5 Pro to your liking. That being said, let's examine the Longer LK5 Pro a little deeper and see if it can be considered the best 3D printer in its price range.
Design and Build Quality
The extended LK5 Pro isn't a successor to the regular LK5, as the manufacturer prefers to use the word Pro to mean using the same color LCD and larger bezel as the LK4 Pro. Obviously there's some marketing crap going on here too. Anyway, the 3D printer is larger than both the LK4 and LK4 Pro when fully built, measuring 22.8 x 21.2 x 26.1 inches (58.0 x 54.0 x 66.3 cm) and weighing 29.8 lbs (13.5 kg), so yes, you do need to Plan where it will be placed as it does take a lot of space. The good news is that the print measures 11.8 x 11.8 x 9.8 inches (30.0 x 30.0 x 40.0 cm), so you can create very large models.
The 3D printer comes partially pre-assembled, since the PSU+ mount connects to the X-axis arm and extruder, so you have to assemble everything else. Inside the package you will find a tall gantry, screw rods and support beams. Due to the taller profile of the Longer LK5 Pro, these beams were necessary to limit vibrations. They do work as expected, but there are a few factors that can cause vibrations, as you'll see in the sections below.
The manufacturer also installed a screw bearing bracket to help hold the screw in place, an upgrade over the exposed Lk4, along with a Z-axis motor, a limit switch, a filament holder, and a touchscreen display.
Additionally, Longer has added a plastic strain relief bracket that you can mount underneath the heatbed and help support the PSU cable. Almost everything is made of metal, with the exception of a few elements, such as the filament holder, which has proven strong enough to hold a heavy coil of filament. The hotbed is made of metal and can reach a temperature of up to 100 degrees Celsius (212 degrees Fahrenheit), however, since it is not insulated, it will take longer to heat up. I also need to mention the extra glass bed you can put on top of the hotbed, which is a great addition, as it's much easier to disassemble the models this way (no forceful removal, they just pop off). The surface is also much more uniform when working with glass, as evidenced by calibration (manually, with a piece of paper). I know some of you might like to see a print room, but that's still out of the question at this price point.
You do get the triangular design, and I do like that the teflon tubing from the extruder to the hot end can handle temperatures up to 280 degrees Celsius (536 F), but note that only supports temperatures up to 250 degrees Celsius (482 building). Another cool element is the filament end sensor, which automatically pauses printing if it detects that the filament is out, then resumes printing after you add the filament back in. The same is true when power is lost, so you don't have to worry about restarting printing, as the Longer LK5 Pro will pick up where it left off when power is restored. I wasn't too sure about the hot end fan duct at first, as it's pretty much the same as the one on the LK4 Pro, but it seems to perform well. You always have the option to print an upgraded version of it, so you can improve it if you get stuck.
The first thing out of the box is the gantry, along with the screw and two support rods. Then there's the spatula, card reader, and microSD card - when you remove this part, be aware that the glass bed is not attached to the assembly, so it could fall and shatter (we don't want that). The rest of the 3D printer is almost pre-assembled, but there are some important parts that need to be added. Before installing anything, I flipped the pre-assembled part of the printer over, and as you can see, the longer plastic feet can (and should) be replaced with silicone feet. The plastic feet are useless for jerks or shocks, while the rubber feet do a good job of absorbing some vibrations.
Then there's Cheng Liang's P360W24V power supply, which is a fairly generic power supply, but should work just fine. Fans have always been a weak point of Longer 3D printers as they can be very loud, the LK5 Pro does have three fans (in addition to the PSU fan) - one on the base of the frame and two on the end of the X-axis beam (for the hot end).
Interestingly, the fans aren't as loud as on the LK4 (the LK4 pushes the 12V fans to 24V), by far, but they're still the easiest part to hear as the Longer makes pretty much everything else quiet - except Exception for extruders. To see why, I decided to open up the main section and had to remove quite a few screws using one of the provided Allen keys. With that, I can see that the LGT_KIT_V1.0 board has three detachable silent steppers (TWC2208) with a small heatsink on top, and the processor is an 8-bit Arduino ATMEGA2560. The extruder does have a different stepper driver (as I expected), and it's not the silent type (couldn't recognize it), but the good news is that you can replace it if it bothers you.
If you look around the PSU you'll find a sticker with instructions to switch between 230V and 115V depending on your country - since I'm in Europe at the time of writing I set the switch to 230V , which is the default, but I know that in the US, you need to change it to 115V.
Once finished, you can start the assembly, according to the instructions on the box, we need to pass the X-axis beam through the gantry rod, and then turn the assembly screw into the X-axis beam dedicated brass nut. Next, I took the X-axis motor and two M4*16 screws, and screwed the motor to the gantry. I then inserted the lead screw into the top of the motor and after unscrewing the coupling's screw the lead screw slid in. Now you can adjust the height of the X-axis beam. The next step requires four M5x20 screws that you will need to secure the gantry to the base. Accessing it from the bottom is very difficult, so it's best to set the whole assembly aside so that the screws can be easily inserted into place. Now it's time to add the support rods, for this you need to use four M4*8 bolts and make sure there is a 90 degree angle between the gantry and the base. I needed to adjust the support rods a bit as the angles were really off, which is absolutely necessary if you are using four bolts to connect two tall columns.
After finishing, use two M4*16 and two M5*20 bolts to connect the limit switch and the filament holder. The limit switch is on top to hold the screw in place and the filament holder is on top of the printer beam. I was a bit surprised by the filament holder on the Selpic Star A Mini 3D printer, but here it seems to be a bit more solid, despite also being made of plastic. After that we need to install the display, the area where the display needs to be added is very obvious as it is the only part where the aluminum is exposed. So take two M5*6 bolts to attach the display and attach the Z-axis limit switch near the X-axis motor. Next we need to connect all the wires so connect the Z cable to the Z axis limit switch, another Z cable with more pins to the motors and the LCD cable to the back of the display. A thick PSU cable connects to the back of the metal bed, then an E-cable with more pins is added to the extruder block, and another E-cable goes to the filament detector. The other two X cables go to the motor.
We're not done yet, as you'll need to use the wrench provided to stabilize the bed. There are three screws underneath that need to be tightened (or loosened) so that the bed loses the rocking effect - use the moving plastic wheel to get a feel for the screws. Now it's time to adjust the heat bed - to do this, turn on the printer (turn it on) and tap the "Leveling" tab on the display. You will now see five points and you will need to click on each one at a time and adjust the wheels from under the bed until all five parts allow you to move a piece of paper with just a little resistance.
It's important to know that you have to go to 4 and back to 1 several times until the seedbed is properly leveled, and yes, this can take quite a while (I played about 20 minutes). I've noticed that the spring quality is good, but the knob could be bigger as it's not easy to move and adjust - you can print new knobs now. Before you start printing anything, it's also a good idea to check that the X-axis motor is moving smoothly, if not, take a wrench and adjust the screw from under the motor.
The Longer LK5 Pro does have the same color display as the LK4 Pro, and it's still pretty good. It's a touchscreen, so no buttons, and generally very responsive, except in areas where some tabs are too narrow - so I had to try two or three times to get the right area. Other than that, the LCD screen is fast and responsive. Immediately after powering on the 3D printer, the display will show six tabs, the first tab is called "Move", which essentially allows you to manually move the hot end (you can also return it to the main position), and the second The second tab is "File". Here you can see all printable 3D models. This only happens if you have inserted a microSD card or connected an external drive or computer to a USB port.
The third tab allows you to adjust the LK5 Pro (bed and nozzle temperature, fan speed, flow, and nozzle flow), while the fourth tab allows you to add or remove filament, as well as select the type (it works with ABS and PLA use). The last two tabs can be used to level the hotbed and check some info about the Longer LK5 Pro.
The cool thing is that you can adjust your print from the LCD display without having to re-slice the model again like you do with other cheap 3D printers.
The LaserPecker is a compact, versatile laser engraver perfect for beginners and professionals alike. It's very easy to use, with a user-friendly interface that allows you to quickly and easily set up your project and start sculpting. Lasers are powerful and precise, making them ideal for engraving a wide variety of materials, including some metals, wood, leather, paper, and more.
One of the outstanding features of the LaserPecker is its portability. It is small in size and light in weight, so you can carry it anywhere. This makes it ideal for those who need to work on projects in different locations, attend a lot of trade shows or expos, or just want the flexibility to work on projects anytime, anywhere.
LaserPecker 2 is a complete redesign of LaserPecker 1. This laser includes a protective cover for more versatility. It also comes with a host of accessories and extras to make it even more versatile. For example, it comes with a focusable lens that allows you to adjust the focus of the laser for different materials and projects, and it also has a swivel attachment that allows you to engrave on cylindrical objects like mugs and bottles.
They now have the recently released LaserPecker 3. It starts at around $1,799 and is a lot more powerful than its predecessors. Some key features are:
The LaserPecker 3 is a fiber laser engraver that can be used on a wide variety of metal and plastic materials without any pretreatment. It features an ultra-fine 0.01mm x 0.01mm compression point for detailed, vivid engraving at 4K resolution. With its innovative galvo technology, the LaserPecker 3 can engrave at an impressive speed of 48000 mm/min.
Dual infrared light positioning design, easy and precise focusing, and the electric bracket can be adjusted for objects of different heights.
The multi-function base includes a positioning plate for efficient batch engraving, and the base can be removed for engraving tall objects or for handheld use.
The LaserPecker 3 laser engraver is easy to set up and use, requiring no complicated assembly. It can be connected to a smartphone or PC and supports various file formats.
The company backs the product with a 12-month warranty and offers live chat support for any questions or issues during usage.
One of the reasons I really like the Laser Woodpecker is that it's very affordable. It's worth the money and offers many features and functions that are usually only found on more expensive laser engravers.
Overall, I highly recommend LaserPecker to anyone looking for a powerful and versatile laser engraver. It's easy to use, portable, and affordable, making it perfect for beginners and professionals alike.
Sculpfun S30 Ultra Laser Engraver and CutterAre you looking for high quality laser engravers and cutters for your business or personal use? Sculpfun S30 Ultra 22W Laser Engraver and Cutter is your best choice.
11W, 22W, 33W power options
The S30 Ultra laser engraver and cutter is available in three different power options: 11W, 22W and 33W. Each power option has its own unique advantages and benefits, depending on your specific needs. The 11W option is great for those who want to light sculpt on materials like wood, leather and plastic. The 22W option is great for those looking to machine thicker or harder materials like metal or glass. For those who need maximum power and speed, the 33W option is the sweet spot. No matter which power option you choose, the S30 Ultra is a versatile and powerful tool that will take your crafting game to the next level.
Enhanced 42-bit stepper motor and replaceable protective lens
The S30 ultra laser engraving and cutting machine is equipped with an enhanced 42-bit stepper motor, which can provide enough power for the machine to move at high speed. The torque reaches 4.2 Kg·cm, which is higher than most common machines. In addition, the laser adopts an innovative replaceable lens, which greatly improves the service life of the laser. One free lens is included in the package, replacement lenses are cheap and easy to buy from Sculpfun.
Built-in high-pressure air-assisted nozzle, upgraded 32-bit air-assisted main board
The Sculpfun S30 super laser engraving and cutting machine is equipped with advanced high-pressure air-assisted metal nozzles, which generate high-pressure airflow under the action of the air pump, which greatly improves the cutting efficiency. Powerful airflow blows away residue, leaving a clean cut surface. The latest 32-bit motherboard supports automatic air-assisted control function and wireless Bluetooth connection, making it easy to control the machine remotely.
Industrial grade cutting precision and detachable laser eye shield
S30 ultra-laser engraving and cutting machine adopts extremely strong 0.005mm high-precision linear slide X-axis to achieve industrial-grade engraving precision. When comparing small engraving details, the S30 Ultra does not have the wavy patterns that appear on ordinary engraving machines. It also features a detachable glass goggle, eliminating the need for glasses while using the machine.
Strong and durable frame, large engraving area
S30 ultra-laser engraving and cutting machine is made of high-strength aluminum alloy, and its frame can withstand a weight of up to 50KG without damage. The frame can be used for a long time and maintain high precision.
large engraving area
The S30 Ultra has a large engraving area of 600x600mm, allowing you to work on larger projects without breaking them into smaller parts. This saves you time and effort and ensures that you can achieve your desired design without compromise.
Laser Information and Machine Information
The diode laser output power of S30 super laser engraving and cutting machine is 11W, 22W, 33W, the laser focus is 0.06x0.08mm, the laser wavelength is 455±5nm, and the focusing method is fixed focus column + sliding device. The engraving accuracy of this machine is 0.005mm, and the power is about 84W. The air pump is 24V, 30L/min, airborne control type, and the inner diameter of the air pipe is 7.5mm. The power input power is 100-240V AC, 50/60HZ, and the output is 24V 7A. The machine can engrave and cut a variety of materials, including wood, MDF, stone, cardboard, plastic, leather, PCB board, alumina, 304 stainless steel, ceramics, etc.
Powerful stepping motor
Powering the S30 Ultra is a 42-position stepper motor, providing enough power for the machine to move at high speeds. With a torque of 4.2 Kg cm, this laser machine can handle even heavy-duty projects with ease.
wide range of engraving materials
The S30 Ultra can engrave a wide variety of materials, including all types of wood (including high-density wood), MDF, stone, cardboard, plastic, leather, PCB board, aluminum oxide, 304 stainless steel, ceramic and dark stone. It can also cut various materials, such as wood (including high-density wood), MDF, acrylic board, cardboard, non-woven fabric, bamboo chips, leather, some plastic boards, PCB boards, etc.
Laser Protection Cover
The S30 Ultra features a removable laser shield to keep you safe while you work. The protective cover can protect your eyes and skin from direct contact with the laser beam and prevent any accidents.
User-Friendly Design
The S30 Ultra has been designed with user-friendliness in mind, with an easy-to-use control panel and simple installation process. It comes with an instruction manual and a step-by-step installation package, making it easy to set up and start using it right away. The laser also supports Bluetooth wireless connectivity for easy operation with your smartphone or tablet.
If you want to unleash your creativity, the S30 Ultra laser engraver and cutter can meet your needs. This laser combines power and versatility with a large engraving area and the ability to handle multiple materials. Whether you're new to your craft or a seasoned pro, the S30 Ultra is the ultimate tool to up your game. What are you waiting for? Get it today and start bringing your wildest ideas to life!
There's nothing more pleasurable and satisfying than making stuff. Getting the job done takes time, energy and the right tools. For laser engraving, Lange's B1 30 watts provide plenty of power for the project to go, but for heaven's sake, be careful! It's a beast!
The Longer B1 is a 30+ watt laser mounted on a software controlled X/Y axis gantry positioning system for engraving and cutting a variety of materials.
Design and Features
The Longer B1 laser engraving machine comes in a large box. I'm glad to see they're doing a great job of keeping their content safe. At first, assembly can seem a bit overwhelming as there are so many bits and pieces, but don't worry.
Comes with TF card and USB adapter, which contains manual, LightBurn and LaserGRBL software, material configuration files, and some test files. LightBurn is paid software with a 30-day free trial. I have a license, so I use it for testing.
Assembling the Longer B1 30W laser engraver is not difficult. The quick start guide does a commendable job of illustrating the process. For convenience, there is also a playboy assembly video on the TF card! Includes assembly tools. I'm impressed that there are only 12 bolts, two straps, two switches, and 7 quick connectors to assemble. The whole process took less than an hour. Once you're done, everything is tight.
Limit switches are attached to the X and Y brackets.
The Longer B1 laser engraver has a huge engraving area of 450 x 440mm.
The laser slides onto rails on the X-axis and is held in place by small diameter thumbscrews, allowing the Z-axis focus to be adjusted. I'd like to see a larger, more accessible method of mounting. That being said, it works and I have had no stability issues.
The feet feature level adjustment.
The air assist pump plugs into the side of the laser module, and the air tubing runs along the same path as the wiring. There is an inline valve to reduce the flow if necessary, but there are several warnings in the literature not to close it or the pump will be damaged.
Before going any further, I must emphasize that the Longer B1 laser engraver is a tool. It is not a toy and may seriously injure you, children or pets, so it should be used with extreme care. This is Category IV, which is defined as "both direct and diffuse radiation considered to be a serious hazard to the skin and eyes." The stray light emitted by the B1 contains so much UV radiation that even a brief exposure can make your eyes feel like there's sand in them . Taken to the extreme, the possibility of permanent blindness is very real. Please don't take any chances. Everyone in the room should wear goggles at all times. You wouldn't let your kids frolic on the roof, or your kitty around the lit stove, would you?
Even more notably, the Longer B1 laser engraver also packs enough punch to inflict severe burns and catch fire quickly. Always maintain adequate ventilation, keep away from flammable materials, be vigilant when handling, and have a fire extinguisher handy. A lack of diligence can lead to plenty of disasters, or at least awkward conversations with doctors, firefighters, law enforcement, or insurance agents. No, I'm not exaggerating. handle it seriously. I've tested the flame detector on several occasions and it's very sensitive, but I wouldn't risk my house.
For extra protection, Lange has wisely installed keyed switches on the control module. Store your keys in a safe place the same way you store your lawn mower, car and storage room keys with a pointed tool. Also connected to the switch are power button, run box button, indicator light, TF card slot, touch screen port, USB-B socket and power socket.
If the optional touch screen is not available, the mechanism for communicating directly with the Longer B1 laser engraver is through the MKLaserTool software or the MKlaser app. Both are simple and well documented in the manual, and connect via WiFi. I'm not used to operating something as powerful as the B1 wirelessly, so I'll stick with the LightBurn's direct USB connection.
If anything happens, press the emergency stop button.
The power supply is a laptop-style brick.
Use a small lever pivoted from the back of the laser to set the focus. Attaching it is ideal for preventing loss.
I had no issues setting up the B1's parameters in LightBurn, and it was up and running in just a few minutes using 4mm Basswood and the test files provided by Longer. A setting of 5000mm/min, 20% power produces deep engraving.
I used their "cat" (paw print) and "bird" test files using 5000mm/min at 50% power and 10,000mm/min at 20% power and the results are shown in the graph below. It's a powerful laser!
The Aloalo pictured below cuts at 6000mm/min at 10% power and makes four passes at 2500mm/min at 100% power.
In general, air assist helps to blow some of the fumes away from the workpiece, thereby reducing scorching. Lange's system works well and has improved significantly, but I think more traffic could make it even better.
So, what does 30 watts of power do? I've used a 10 watt laser and it's great for light wood, acrylic, and fabric, but the Longer B1 laser engraver is on another level. Higher power means shorter project times and the ability to cut thick materials and etch metal with ease. The plate is a coated steel plate.
As you can see the laser caused the sheet to warp. This is not the fault of the Lange B1 laser engraving machine. I need to make better choices about what I'm using.
Longer provides a PDF of recommended cutting and etching parameters, which is a good starting point, but as with any machine, some tweaking and refinement will be required to bring up the best settings.
I have used laser engravers in the past, but nothing can match the speed and power of the Longer B1 30 Watt Diode Laser Engraving Machine. Similar projects that would have taken hours took a fraction of the time, I love air assist for less scorching, but caution should always be used when using this amazing tool. I have many projects waiting to be worked on.
Recommended by other brands: LaserPecker , Atomstack , Ortur , Sculpfun , TwoTrees
As a dedicated metal worker, I know how important it is to have the right equipment to achieve the desired results. A laser engraver for metalworking is one of the essential instruments in my arsenal. With this adaptable tool, I can easily draw intricate and detailed designs on metal surfaces. However, finding the best laser engraver for metalworking can be challenging. To help you find the ideal laser engraver for your metalworking needs, I've created this helpful guide.
Before delving into the intricacies of choosing the best laser engraver for metalworking, it is crucial to have a basic understanding of the different types of laser engravers available. Generally speaking, there are two main types of laser engravers: CO2 and fiber optic. We've covered this topic before in our laser engraving machine buying guide, and it's comprehensive enough to give you everything you need.
A CO2 laser engraver produces a focused beam of light that is then shone onto the material to be etched. These special laser engravers are great for objects like paper, plastic, and wood. Since CO2 laser engravers are less expensive than fiber laser engravers, they are often chosen by hobbyists and small businesses. They can create various engraving depths and are ideal for engraving on curved surfaces.
On the other hand, fiber laser engraving machines are more suitable for processing metal materials. They produce significantly higher beam power than CO2 laser engravers, making them more efficient at engraving metal. This type of laser engraver is ideal for engraving on metals such as stainless steel, aluminum, and copper. Fiber laser engravers are more expensive than CO2 laser engravers, but they last longer and require less maintenance. They also offer greater precision and fine detail work, making them the first choice for industrial applications.
Now that you know about the different types of laser engravers, it's time to consider the most important factors when choosing a portable laser engraver for metalworking.
Laser power is one of the most important factors to consider when choosing a laser engraver for metalworking. The depth and speed of engraving are affected by the laser power. Higher laser power can achieve faster engraving speed and deeper engraving. Finding the ideal balance between power and affordability is critical, as increased laser power also means higher price. Look for laser engravers with a minimum power of 30 watts for metalworking.
The bed size of your laser engraver is another important factor to consider. The size of the bed determines the maximum size of the metal piece you can carve. If you plan to use larger metal pieces, you will need a laser engraver with a larger bed size. However, larger bed sizes also mean higher prices, so it is important to consider the size of the metal pieces you will be using before making a purchase.
The software that comes with your laser engraver is also an important factor to consider. This software controls the laser engraver and allows you to create designs and patterns. Look for software that is easy to use and has a wide range of features. Some laser engravers come with proprietary software, while others use open source software that is freely available online.
When buying, price is always an important factor to consider. Metalworking laser engravers can range in price from hundreds to thousands of dollars. While considering the other aspects mentioned above, it is crucial to have a budget and stick to it. While you shouldn't waste features you don't need, you shouldn't skimp on features that are critical to your project's success either.
Laser engravers generate a lot of heat and require a cooling system to prevent the laser from overheating and damaging the machine. There are two types of cooling systems: air-cooled and water-cooled. Air-cooled systems are less expensive, but not as effective as water-cooled systems, especially when using high-power lasers. Water cooling systems are more expensive, but they provide better cooling and help extend the life of the laser tube.
Durability is another important factor to consider when choosing a laser engraver for metalworking. Look for a machine that is made of high-quality materials and has a solid design. A durable laser engraver lasts longer and requires less maintenance, saving you time and money in the long run.
The intense beam emitted by the laser engraving machine may damage your skin and eyes. You should look for a machine that has safety features like a shield or goggles. High quality materials should be used to construct the shielded enclosure, which is intended to protect the user from inadvertent laser beam exposure.
Finally, consider the level of customer support offered by the manufacturer. Look for a manufacturer that offers great customer service and technical support. A good manufacturer will provide training, troubleshooting help, and a warranty for their machines.
By considering these additional factors, you can find a laser engraver for metalworking that offers the performance, safety, and durability you need to achieve your metalworking goals.
Finding the best laser engraving machine for metalworking can be a challenging task. However, by considering the basics, you can find the perfect machine for your needs. When looking for a laser engraver for metalworking, it is important to consider laser power, bed size, software, price, cooling system, durability, safety features, and customer support.
In my opinion, fiber laser engraving machines are the best choice for metal processing. It produces the best results and lasts longer than a CO2 laser engraving machine when working with metal materials. Look for a fiber laser engraver with a bed sized for the metal parts you'll be working on and a minimum laser power of 30 watts. The effectiveness of the cooling system and the availability of the software should also be considered.
At htpowlasers, we understand the importance of finding the perfect laser engraving machine, which is why we offer a wide range of high-quality machines from different brands. The selection of htpowlasers is carefully curated to ensure we only supply the best machines that meet our high quality and performance standards. htpowlasers laser engravers are available in different sizes, laser powers, bed sizes and software options, including proprietary and open source software, making it easy to find the perfect machine for your metalworking project.
If you're considering starting a small business or pursuing a side hustle in the world of laser engraving, efficiency is undoubtedly a crucial factor to consider. At LaserPecker, we prioritize efficiency, and that's why we have developed our innovative button and thoughtful designs specifically for batch engraving.
In this blog, we aim to showcase the remarkable accessories designed for our laser engraving and cutting machines—the LP2 & LP3 models. Additionally, we will highlight the benefits of these accessories, which significantly contribute to improving efficiency. This comprehensive guide will assist you in using these accessories effortlessly and unlocking your creative potential for your artistic endeavors.
Batch Engraving Button
This device is designed for high efficiency and flexibility, instead of engraving or cutting individual products separately, try batch production of multiple identical products on the same material. By eliminating the need for repeated parameter settings, it saves you valuable time and energy while greatly increasing production efficiency.
Simple steps to batch working:
Seamless Connectivity:
Start by connecting the batch engraving button to the laser head using a USB cable, specifically a Type C connector.
Convenient Button Attachment:
The batch engraving button can magnetically attach to and detach from the laser head's handle with ease, adding a level of convenience to your workflow.
Wireless Control:
Connect the device to your LaserPecker App via Bluetooth. This connection allows for seamless control and access to advanced settings.
Unlock the Button Functionality:
By accessing the "Settings" icon in your LaserPecker App, navigate to the "Mode Settings" and enable the "Button Unlock" feature.
Effortless Preview and Engraving:
Select the pattern or image you wish to engrave and initiate the first trial. To preview subsequent engravings, simply give the button a short press. End the preview mode with another short press. When you are ready, long press the button for 2-3 seconds to begin the engraving process. Pause the engraving with a single short press, and end it with another long press for 2-3 seconds.
Adjustable Alignment Fixtures on Base Plate
On top of these impressive features, the LaserPecker 3 offers adjustable alignment fixtures on its base plate, setting it apart from its predecessor LaserPecker 2. The removable base plate of the LaserPecker 3 boasts several arrays of thoughtfully designed holes. These holes serve a magical purpose - they accommodate adjustable alignment fixtures, taking batch engraving efficiency to new heights.
With the LaserPecker 3, you can position the fixtures using four screws, allowing for continuous batch work. Simply insert your objects, such as cards, into the fixed shape and let the LaserPecker 3 work its magic. Say goodbye to repetitive parameter settings for each individual engraving. The LaserPecker 3 streamlines the process and effortlessly handles batch engraving, making it an ideal choice for business applications or large-scale projects.
Final Message
At LaserPecker, we take great pride in continuously developing and enhancing laser engraving innovations. Time is of the essence when running a business or pursuing a side hustle, and our models offer the perfect creative solutions. Whether you're selling customized products or original works of art, both online and in person, the engraver's unparalleled precision, speed, and efficiency, combined with the creative add-ons, will propel your productivity and sales to new heights. So, let your creativity soar with LaserPecker!
The Ortur Laser Master 3 laser cutter and engraver features a 10W diode laser that can engrave at speeds up to 20,000mm/min and cut wood up to 19mm thick. It has built-in WiFi and a powerful smartphone app to create and wirelessly send custom projects directly to the engraver.
I'll go over all of its features and thoroughly test Orturs' claims to see if this is the right laser engraver for you. If you haven't learned about this technology, please take a look at my previous article introducing this technology to help you quickly understand.
My box arrived a bit worn out but everything inside was well protected. Basic assembly is required, but should take no more than 30 minutes to assemble. I don't recommend using the supplied user manual - the illustrations are too small - go to the Ortur website and find a link to a YouTube video of the assembly, or check out the manual online so you can at least zoom in to take a closer look at the more tedious steps.
You can see everything that comes in the box, which includes some safety specs and a handy little storage box with tools and parts. There are also some wood, acrylic and metal samples to test the engraver.
The easiest way is to start assembly from the top down. Thread the Y-axis motor cable through the left Y-axis, then connect the left and right Y-axis with one bolt. The frame of the router is not a standard aluminum extrusion - Ortur makes custom parts that are well machined and lock precisely into place, ensuring the frame is square.
Once the Y axis is in place, you can slide over the already assembled X axis. Then mount the straps on both sides, which you need to blindly hook onto the pulleys inside the back assembly. It's a bit of a hassle, but if you're really stuck, you can remove the end cap so you can see what you're doing.
Then you need to attach the idler. Fit them loosely and loop the straps around them. Set its position with the included set screw to set the belt tension. There is a marker showing their best position. You can then screw the pulleys into place. If the strap is too loose or too tight, you can loosen these bolts and adjust the set screws.
You can then use the single bolt again on both sides to attach the front assembly. Connect the motherboard connector on the connector and connect the Y-axis cable that was pulled earlier. This was the most troublesome bit for me - it was very difficult to plug in the little connector.
You can then connect the other end of the connector to the X-axis motor and use the provided zip ties to loosely hold this rather bulky cable in place. Then connect the laser's cable to the socket marked "L" and secure loosely in place with a zip tie.
The laser module is already equipped with an air-assisted nozzle and a laser shield. It slides onto the X-axis using a dovetail mechanism and can be locked into its vertical position with a thumbscrew.
Plug the laser cable into the laser module using the keyed 5-pin connector. It's all very neat, making the laser module very easy to remove to clean the lens, remove the air assist nozzle, or replace another laser module in the future.
You can then install two stop bolts to the front of the engraver to prevent the laser head from hitting the front assembly. Slide the X axis onto these stop bolts, then slide the belts on both sides into the toothed belt grooves so everything is square. Screw on the WiFi antenna to complete the assembly.
This is the smartest engraver I've ever seen, and it's well made and solid.
My only two real criticisms are the rotary scroll wheel switch, which, while useful, is rather exposed and looks a bit cheap. What's more, the bulky wiring machine lacks any cable management.
It's easy to get caught in things, so I 3D printed a small zip tie base and taped it to the side of the router with double sided tape, which helps keep things organized.
It's a very low-profile machine, for reasons I'll get to later, but you'll still need quite a bit of room. Above you can see the required working space for the machine. The dimensions listed on the Ortur website seem to be a bit off. But if you want to move it around, it's pretty light at 4.3kg.
The top of the front assembly has a power button that requires a long press to turn on and off, and a multi-color LED ring that glows to indicate its status. Then there is a barrel lock with key provided and emergency stop button. Keyed locks are a welcome feature if you have young children around or want to use them at a school or makerspace. You will need to make sure the lock is in the open position and reset the position by turning the emergency stop button clockwise to open the machine.
Behind the front assembly is a microSD card slot in a rather awkward position, with a reset and boot switch next to it.
On the left side of the front assembly are the USB port for connecting to a computer, the DC jack for connecting an AC adapter, and the WiFi antenna.
The Y-axis switch on the back needs to be in the Y-motor position, unless you're using the rotary wheel that connects to the port below the switch.
The OLM3 features a 10W laser module combined with two 5.5W laser diodes. It has a 0.05 x 0.1mm focal spot and an 8mm depth of field, providing a good combination of engraving and cutting performance. Its 400mm x 400mm capacity is average for an open diode laser machine of this type, but smaller than the TwoTrees TS2 I saw last month.
Its biggest selling point is speed. Ortur cites an engraving speed of 20,000 mm/min, twice the engraving speed of a typical 10W laser. It achieves this through its low profile design and relatively compact and light laser module. But this low-profile design does mean that you'll need to lift the router to machine thicker items, especially if you're using a honeycomb cutting table. Ortur does sell foldable feet to increase its height, but I haven't received any to try.
Before I go on to discuss testing, if you're new to all this, be sure to see my previous article covering laser safety. The article also covers the basics of laser engraving and cutting, and the basics of using software like Lightburn which I will be using with OLM3. At least from a safety standpoint, you must wear the included laser safety glasses.
The Ortur does have some extra security features along with the key lock and panic button I mentioned earlier. It has tilt protection, which turns off the laser if the machine falls off the table, and it has exposure duration detection in case the motor stops moving for any reason. If the laser is left on at the same location, it may cause a fire.
Before you can turn on the laser engraver, you will need to install a microSD card - the engraver will not work without it. Be careful not to miss the microSD slot and slide it into the front assembly frame. I then connected the Ortur to my computer with the provided USB cable. You will be able to view the contents of the microSD card through this USB connection.
Unusually, this is a USB-A to USB-A cable, rather than a typical printer cable that has a square USB-B connector on the other end. In Lightburn you can also use the free LaserGRBL, add the engraver manually and select the GRBL with USB connection and set the size to 400mm x 400mm. The home position is on the front left, and you can disable auto-homing, as it will do it anyway. The laser has a focal length of 50mm and the laser module has a convenient spread out arm to set the correct height above the workpiece.
I found the extension arm to be a little flimsy, and it didn't lock into place. The adjustment changes slightly as you tighten the thumbscrew, so it takes some practice to get this right. I prefer the motorized automatic height adjustment feature on the Two Trees TS2, which also lets you automatically lower the Z height when making multiple cuts.
I wanted to test the high-speed claim first, so I engraved a grayscale photo of this cork coaster. I'm using 20,000mm/min, 0.1mm line spacing, 100% power, it's too dark as you can see. In Lightburn you can adjust the speed and power during printing, I ended up with 50% power for the last third of the engraving and it looks about the same. Printing takes approximately 8 minutes.
Ortur provides helpful guidelines for engraving and cutting various materials on the included microSD card. This is a good starting point, but I recommend using the material testing functionality in Lightburn to fine-tune your setup for best results.
For Basswood plywood, Ortur recommends 15,000 mm/min at 100% power. Using the Lightburn material test, I engraved this test image, which I would say is about correct, but I darkened it a bit and engraved the same image again at 12,500 mm/s.
I also tried engraving these coated aluminum business cards and after a little rubbing with isopropyl alcohol it worked really well. I again used Ortur's recommended settings: 3000 mm/min at 25% power. Although these coatings do give off some nasty smoke, even when extracted.
The 10W laser is even powerful enough to engrave stainless steel. You don't need to apply any coatings, and the little name tag performed really well at Ortur's recommended 2000mm/min and 100% power - even though my text did get a bit off center.
I cut and engraved a small tag out of leather less than 2mm thick and it came out perfectly - even the small holes were precise and rounded, which is a challenge for these belt driven machines.
When cutting, you can use the built-in air-assisted nozzle, but you'll need to provide your own pump. I tried it with a cheap pump from Fox Alien, but it was actually worse than no pump at all, as you can see below.
With the fan turned on along with the laser, the laser module itself seems to generate enough air for lighter cuts.
For deeper cuts, I used the main compressor with its digital regulator set to 15 PSI, which did give sharper results.
Ortur does offer some additional fittings to work with the air supply hose, but I just used a 3D printed adapter to connect it directly to my compressor hose. The hose fits directly into the laser module. It's a bit of a hassle, but you need to push down on this black collar to retract the little barb that grabs the hose to insert and release the hose. I attached it loosely to the router to keep it tidy and keep it from getting tangled.
The air nozzle can be easily removed when engraving. Just squeeze the laser shield lightly and unscrew the nozzle. This is a very clever design.
Like all of these diode laser makers, Ortur has some bold claims to make when it comes to cutting. According to their website, this 10W module has a maximum cutting depth of 30mm. Although looking more closely at their materials chart, this is using black acrylic, 17 passes at 100mm/min and 100% power, so you don't want to do this too often, even if possible.
But the more typical, stronger birch plywood was more of a challenge. With the air assist from the compressor I can cut 100% at 200mm/min most of the time. But the 10W TwoTrees TS2 can cut the same sheet at 300mm/min.
Jog the laser into position using the app with WiFi
The OLM3 also has built-in WiFi, and you can easily connect to the machine using the free Laser Explorer app. The app does far more than I expected. You can select an image or text to engrave, create barcodes and QR codes, but what I find most useful is using it to precisely nudge the position of the laser. The machine doesn't have a built-in LCD screen to control the engraver, but the app is a useful substitute. I would be a little wary of using it for sculpting, though. When I turn on the laser to line up jobs, it sets the power at 4%, which is way too high and starts burning a spot on the material if you're not careful. I can't get it lower than 1% - in Lightburn I use 0.25%, which is enough to see the laser dot.
Connect Wirelessly to Your Engraver Using Lightburn
I still prefer to use Lightburn to send jobs, and I did find the app disconnect a few times while testing. You can also access Engraver's own server via the IP address visible in the app. I was able to connect to Lightburn's engraver from a computer connected via ethernet. I just added another device and selected ethernet. Using this machine wirelessly is convenient, but I haven't had 100% success with it, with a few prints randomly aborting during printing.
The laser engraver is completely silent when not engraving. The fan is only turned off when the laser is on, when the laser is off the fan turns itself off after a few seconds. The fan is loud when running, but the motor runs very quietly. You can hear it in action in the accompanying video. The overall feeling is that of a very refined carver.
The Ortur Laser Master 3 is a very well designed machine that delivers some really good results. Its engraving performance is particularly impressive, with its high speed and fine laser spot. Setup is super easy, and I especially like how the belt and pulleys hide dirt and grime.
The integrated WiFi is a great feature, not only for use with the smartphone app, but also for wireless printing from the Lightburn, even if I didn't get 100% reliable results in my testing.
While I've never laser-burned before, I'm familiar with vector graphics, photo editing, and similar hardware used by 3D printers. Even with my previous knowledge of the hobby, laser engraving and cutting is indeed a new hobby for me. So we can learn about Ray5, software and technology together.
Specifications and Features of the Longer Ray5 Laser Engraving Machine
High-tech laser module
The laser engraver features the latest in state-of-the-art FAC laser technology with the option of a compressed laser spot. In terms of the size of the laser, it is 0.08 x 0.08 mm. That means it's a hyperfocused laser spot. Also, more focus on the laser spot means more power. This directly translates to finer cuts and higher quality designs. The high focus and high energy of the laser spot make the engraving firmer. In terms of power output, the module output can reach up to 5-5.5W.
32-bit chipset
The Longer Ray5 laser engraver features an ESP32 chipset running at 240 MHz. This means the chipset is much faster than other contemporary machines. Especially for 8-bit chipsets, the operation speed will be very different. Another key feature of this chipset is that it has Wi-Fi connectivity. This means you can easily control the design using the internet.
Protection and Safety
This laser engraver has some special safety and protection options. This means that if the machine starts up during operation, the machine shuts itself down. Also, if there is flame or heat inside the engraving machine, the machine will shut itself off. These features of the engraving machine make it very safe to operate.
Another type of protection that laser engravers offer is eye protection. The acrylic cover of the laser module acts as a shield for the eyes from laser damage. Despite protection, it is recommended that you wear safety goggles when using your Longer laser engraver.
Compatible with Windows/MAC/Linux system
The Longer Ray 5 laser engraver is compatible with all modern operating systems. The built-in operating system of the free engraving software is LaserGRBL. However, if you need more features, there is also a paid version in the form of LightBurn software. In terms of file types, the engraver supports all major types of design files. This includes BMP, jpg, png, SVG, DXF, etc.
Ray5 upgrade options
The longer Ray 5 laser engraver comes with the option to upgrade its laser engraver. An upgradeable feature is that the power supply and motherboard support more powerful 8W/10W laser modules.
Touch screen
The laser engraving machine offers a 3.5-inch touch screen that makes interacting with the engraver easier. This feature also enables users to work on designs without connecting them to a computer for control.
Offline control
In addition, Ray5 engravers can use TF / microSD card to load designs easily. This means you can upload files to the engraver even if you are not connected to the internet.
With Wi-Fi control and a touchscreen, the Longer RAY5 is pretty much the best laser engraver out there. As a result, CNC lasers are particularly easy to operate. Just 5 watts of light power is enough to produce good results on many materials.
Other brand products: LaserPecker 3 deluxe , sculpfun s30 pro max , ortur laser master 3 , twotrees ts2 10w , atomstack a10 pro
The Sculpfun S30 Pro is a 10W diode laser engraving machine with air assist, perfect for anyone looking to get into the hobby.
The Sculpfun S30 Pro Laser Engraver is very similar to many other machines of this type on the market. I mean, once I started going online to learn how to operate it with the software I needed, I was amazed at all the options. Since this is the only laser engraver of this type that I've used, I won't compare it to anything else. I can't even compare it to other laser engravers I've tested because they're completely different types of lasers, but that's a story for another day.
First, let's talk about the construction of the Sculpfun S30 Pro. Once assembled, it is very sturdy! The joints where the X and Y frame members meet are tight. The frame pieces are made of aluminum alloy, which is lightweight and strong. I don't know if they are machined or extruded, but each one is well made, straight and has clean channels. I don't think anyone will fault the build of the S30 Pro.
Next up is a 10W diode laser. From my very limited experience, what I can tell you is that there seem to be 3 types of lasers available to hobbyists: CO2, Fiber Optic, and Diode. Diode lasers seem to be the least expensive of the 3 lasers, making them an excellent choice for hobbyists and experienced users alike. The things to know when choosing one should be based on the type of material you will be cutting or engraving. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. I've had more fun with the Sculpfun S30 Pro diode laser so far, so it's definitely a pro in my book. It's strong enough for me at the moment.
Another great thing about the Sculpfun S30 Pro is that it comes with automatic air assist and the required nozzles are already installed on the laser head. All you have to do is connect the air pump and air hose. Air assist isn't necessarily necessary, although some might argue against that statement. The reason this is a great feature is that it keeps charring to a minimum when cutting materials like wood, resulting in a cleaner end product with less sanding.
The brains of the S30 Pro are in the box at the bottom right corner of the unit. It has the latest 32-bit motherboard with support for air assist and bluetooth. I say should because I haven't tested this feature yet. To use it, you must purchase a compatible antenna. I've read online that other people have done this on other similar engravers with mixed results, I didn't do anything with it because the feature was more worth having.
When setting up your Sculpfun S30 Pro, please take the time to get it right. You'll thank yourself later. It took me about 45 minutes to an hour to build it. The instructions are easy to follow, so be sure to read them.
Each piece and bag of parts is labeled so you know what to use when.
They label the cables so you know where to connect them.
Everything you need to get the job done is included, such as tools and hardware.
Even the velcro and zip ties for organizing the wiring are here.
When assembling the frame, be sure to let the corners loose until everything else is assembled. Once you're done, you can go around and make sure each corner is square and flush. The most difficult part of the construction was the belts running the gantry. The belt has to pass through the channel in the frame and then run the gantry wheel up, over and down. That doesn't mean it's hard to do it. I just have big hands and that part can be a little clumsy.
Nothing wrong there, just the nature of the beast. The last thing to do is connect it to your PC via the included USB cable. I don't like the USB-B connection. It's made on top of the control box, and the weight of the cable pulls on it a bit.
The next thing you need to set up your S30 Pro laser engraver is software. So you know, it doesn't come with anything. I find that odd too, but my impression is that most laser engravers don't have their own software. From my experience with my first laser engraver, I can see why. While these companies can make great hardware, that doesn't always mean they make great software. Like many other products, the S30 Pro is designed to be compatible with third-party software, and the focus of third-party software has been strictly on production software. I know there are two programs available, one is free and the other is free to try and then $60. I tried both and ended up choosing the paid version. Another great thing about this software is that there are many communities, websites and Youtube videos teaching you how to use them. Believe me, there is a lot to learn. From speed and power settings for different materials, to designing your project in the software, to using all the settings to ensure you get the most out of your engraver.
I am very impressed with the Sculpfun S30 Pro laser machine. Yes, there is a learning curve due to the software and all the different setups, but as I said, there is a lot of support to help you dial in. Most people recommend that you do a material test based on your material. I'm trying to sculpt or cut, but I've chosen a different strategy that involves finding a library to import. All of these settings are ready to go, although I do need to tweak a few .
With the S30 Pro, I can engrave metal, wood and leather. I haven't gotten around to cutting anything yet, and my wife keeps coming up with other projects for me to do for her, although I have no doubts that it will turn out great.
Now to the security issue. Wear the included goggles when using the S30 Pro, and boy, you don't want to shoot yourself in the eye! Also, make sure you know which materials are safe to use. Some emit toxic fumes when burned. Finally, make sure you're in a well-ventilated area and/or have a smoke extractor. I thought I could pull the smoke out of my home office windows with a powerful fan. Let's just say it didn't turn out as well as it should. Totally my fault and nothing to do with the Sculpfun S30 Pro.
I found a new hobby with the Sculpfun S30 Pro. I love this stuff, it's fun to make for friends, family, and myself. So if you want to pursue a laser engraver as a hobby, or even start a side business, check out Sculpfun. They work great on the S30 Pro!
The Sculpfun S9 is a high-end machine that outperforms its predecessors, the Sculpfun S6 and Sculpfun S6 Pro, as well as competitors like the Atomstack A5 Pro.
Like the Sculpfun S6 Pro, the S9 Laser Engraver comes with a manual of good, easy to understand assembly instructions. The mechanical part is almost the same as the S6 series. All necessary tools are included. Screws and parts are packed in separate bags and labeled accordingly according to the necessary steps in the assembly manual. The machine can be assembled in less than 30 minutes.
The Sculpfun S9 Laser Engraver features a laser diode that puts out about 5.5W of optical power - just like the S6 Pro. But the laser head itself is much larger, and has some clever optics inside that allow the beam to be focused for a greater distance and have a higher optical density, allowing you to cut thicker materials with more efficient power. The advertised maximum cutting depth is 15mm. We will test this. The Sculpfun S9 is advertised as 90W CO2 laser equivalent power. A laser diode is a fixed focus diode, which is pretty awesome.
The focusing process is the same as the sculptfun S6 Pro and S6 30W we tested earlier. For best cutting results, the cutting head needs to be 20 mm above the engraving surface. This is achieved by focusing on the aluminum blocks. The head is then focused with the reticle positioned approximately 3 mm above the surface. But the good thing is that you can easily remove the shade if needed. This will come in handy when carving odd objects like spoons, axes, and other irregularly shaped objects. The laser head is tightened by a thumb screw, making the focusing process quick and easy.
For cutting thicker materials, it is recommended to remove the acrylic protective cover and focus the laser head a few millimeters lower than the standard. In this way, the cutting performance will be much better.
Cutting and engraving different materials
Engraving: wood, leather, cotton (clothes), rubber, paper, fruit, foam, acrylic, black anodized aluminum, black metal, stainless steel...
The Sculpfun S9 is a powerful knife.
Cutting: wood, paper, tape, fabric, acrylic, cardboard, fabric, bamboo, plastic board, KT board...
With this machine, you can cut paper, tape, and thinner cardboard in one pass, and cut wood multiple times. The machine can cut acrylic and wood, especially poplar plywood, which is soft and is the wood of choice for all laser cutters.
We have tested the machine with engraving and cutting different materials. You will find our test results in the following chapters.
Software and Supported Formats
You can use the Sculpfun laser engraver with the free LaserGRBL software, which works fine but is a bit clumsy to use. It's great for some tests, but I chose Lightburn, which is more powerful and intuitive to use. While it's not free, the license costs $60. However, the software offers a 1-month fully functional free trial, which will help you decide if it's worth it. For me, it's definitely worth it because it saves a lot of time (it's not free).
With LaserGRBL you can import vector files (NC, BMP, JPG, PNG, DXF...) and bitmap image files (bmp, jpg, png and gif),
Lightburn supports even more formats: AI, SVG, DXF, PDF, HPGL, PLT, and RD for vector formats, PNG, JPEG, BMP, TIFF, TGA, and GIF for image formats.
The vector format is the preferred format for these machines because it contains the path around the edge of the shape that the laser head traces. Engraving vector files is faster because the laser cuts directly on the path instead of scanning and dotting the bitmap image (photo) as a printer does.
You can get millions of free vector designs on the Internet, or you can use a free vector drawing program like Inkscape or QCAD (for more technical drawings)
You can also import tons of vector designs and images from free vector sites, or you can buy beautiful laser designs on sites like Etsy. This really expands your capabilities.
wood carving
Our standard engraving patterns are designed to demonstrate the engraving capabilities at different settings, so you can see the effect of the laser beam.
What's immediately apparent is that the Sculpfun S9's engravings are sharper and more contrasty than other machines we've tested before. Also, the wood surface is basically free of smoke stains. That's very impressive!
The power scale test pattern shows how the machine carves at different power levels at different speeds.
Power is varied from 10% to 100% in 10% increments at speeds of 600, 1200, 1800 and 2400 mm/min. We omitted doing the low speed/high power shape with the Atomstack A5 20W because the beam burns too much at low speed. This left a large charred blob that provided no useful information.
At first glance, the Sculpfun S9 has significantly higher power output than the Sculpfun S6 Pro. We'll see if this is true in a later test.
The interval scale test here is used to show whether the laser focus shape is square or rectangular. The scanning interval gradually increases from 0.1mm to 0.5mm.
In this test, the Sculpfun S9 showed that the shape of the beam was very close to rectangular, as the vertical and horizontal sculpting was well balanced.
We will be able to estimate the exact spot shape later when we test the engraving on the anodized aluminum.
This is a test of engraving a small photo of 20mm size while varying the maximum laser power.
Engraving photos is very slow because the laser head has to scan line by line like an inkjet printer. If you want to engrave a very large photo, be prepared to wait for hours :)
As we'll see below, the Sculpfun S9 is by far the best engraver for engraving photos. Photos look very sharp, with high detail and contrast.
Introduce
The Longer Ray5 10W Laser Engraver is powerful yet easy to operate, producing outstanding laser engraving results. Despite the many benefits, consumers may still experience issues that need to be addressed.
In this article, I will walk you through some typical problems of the Longer Ray5 10W laser engraver and provide solutions.
Problem 1: The cutting or engraving of the laser engraving machine is not normal
It's not uncommon for a laser engraver to have problems cutting or etching material properly. If you encounter this problem, there are several ways to check.
First, this problem is often caused by inattention. To ensure that the laser beam is sufficiently focused on the material, the laser head must be properly aligned and the focus set to 50mm. Incorrect positioning of the laser head can cause it to miss material, resulting in uneven cut or engraved designs.
Second, make sure the power output and speed parameters are acceptable for the material being engraved. If the power output of the laser is insufficient, the material may not be cut or etched properly. If the power output is too high, the material may be burned or damaged. Likewise, if the engraving speed is too slow, the material may overheat, causing the edges to melt or deform.
Last but not least, it is critical to ensure that the material is free of debris that could hinder the performance of the laser. The surface of the material may contain dust, grit, or other particles that scatter the laser beam, making precision engraving or cutting difficult. To prevent this problem, it is recommended to properly clean the material before engraving.
Problem 2: The engraving quality of the laser engraving machine is poor
When using a Longer Ray5 20W laser engraver, the machine may not be able to cut or engrave the material properly. If you encounter this problem, there are several things to look at.
For starters, lack of concentration is a common cause of this problem. To ensure that the laser beam is sufficiently focused on the material, the laser head must be properly positioned and set to a focal length of 50mm. If the laser head is not positioned properly, material may be missed, resulting in incomplete cuts or engravings.
The second critical step is to ensure that the power output and speed parameters are appropriate for the material being etched. If the power output is too low, the laser may not be able to effectively cut or engrave the material. On the other hand, if the power output is too high, the material may burn or be damaged. If the etch rate is too slow, the material may overheat and deform or melt.
Finally, make sure the material is clean and free of debris that could interfere with laser performance. Dust, dirt, or other particles on the surface of the material can scatter the laser beam, making precise cutting or engraving difficult. To avoid this problem, clean the material properly before engraving.
Problem 3: The laser engraving machine overheats
A typical problem that can shorten the life and performance of a laser engraver is overheating. An overheating laser engraving machine can cause various problems, such as damage to the equipment, poor engraving quality, and even safety hazards such as fire or smoke.
To avoid overheating, make sure the engraver is in a well-ventilated and well-ventilated area. This will help dissipate the heat generated by the laser engraver and prevent heat from building up in the machine's internal components. Airflow can be improved by placing the router in a well-ventilated area or installing a fan to circulate air around the machine.
In addition to providing adequate ventilation, make sure the router's thermal protection is turned on. This feature is designed to keep an eye on the temperature of the machine and prevent overheating by automatically turning off the laser if the temperature rises above a predetermined level.
Check the temperature gauge regularly to monitor the temperature of the engraving machine. If the temperature rises above the recommended level, turn off the engraver and wait for it to cool before restarting. This will prevent the system from overheating and causing damage to internal components.
Question 4: The laser engraving machine is not connected to the computer or software
For machine control and engraving design input, the laser engraver must be connected to a computer or software. If your laser engraver cannot connect to your computer or software, it can be frustrating and prevent you from using the machine properly.
A defective or improperly connected USB cable is one of the most common causes of connection problems. Check the USB cable and make sure it is securely connected to the engraver and computer to resolve this issue. To see if the problem is resolved, connect the cable to a different USB port on the computer.
Incorrect driver installation is another potential cause of connection problems. Laser engravers often require specific drivers to be installed on the computer before they can be used properly. Make sure you have the right driver for your engraving machine by checking the manufacturer's website, then follow their installation instructions to install it.
Finally, make sure the software you are using is compatible with your laser engraver and is properly configured. Some Longer engravers have their own software, while others use third-party software such as LaserGRBL or LightBurn. Check that the software you are using is compatible with your laser engraving machine and that the settings in the software are correct.
Problem 5: Laser Engraver Produces Excessive Smoke
Excessive fumes or fumes from laser engraving machines can be harmful to your health, so it is critical to deal with this problem promptly. There are a number of things you can do to reduce the amount of fume your router emits.
First, make sure the laser engraver is placed in a well-ventilated space. This way, the smoke is dispersed and does not accumulate in the air. Good ventilation can be created by placing the engraving machine near an open window or by using a fan to move air around the machine.
To help disperse smoke and odors, consider using a honeycomb work table or an air assist kit. Honeycomb table improves airflow and reduces fumes during engraving. Air assist kits can help disperse smoke by directing airflow over the material being carved.
In the end, it is important to use materials suitable for laser engraving and to avoid engraving materials that produce toxic fumes. Some materials, such as PVC or vinyl, produce toxic fumes when engraving and should be avoided. Instead, choose materials like wood, leather, or acrylic, which produce less fume when carving.
in conclusion
The Longer Ray5 10W Laser Engraver is powerful and adaptable for detailed engraving on a variety of surfaces. But like any machine, it may have issues that need fixing. By using the advice and fixes provided in this article, you can ensure your laser engraver will continue to work well and efficiently for many years to come.
Other Brand： Laserpecker , Sculpfun , Ortur , Twotrees , Atomstack
